Rasmus Kofoed's eighth-floor dining room above Faelledparken delivers a 20-course universe menu that feels like eating the Danish landscape across all four seasons simultaneously.

Geranium occupies the eighth floor of the Parken stadium in Copenhagen — an address that sounds unpromising until you arrive and find yourself in a glass-walled dining room suspended above Faelledparken, the city's largest park, with a view that encompasses the park's canopy, the city's copper spires, and, on clear days, the Swedish coast across the Oresund. The setting is, in its way, as much a part of the meal as anything that arrives from the kitchen.

Rasmus Kofoed, who won the Bocuse d'Or in 2011 and has held three Michelin stars since 2016, is one of the most technically accomplished chefs in the world. His 'Universe' tasting menu — twenty courses that change with the seasons — is built around the Danish landscape in a way that is more literal than metaphorical: ingredients are foraged, grown, or caught within a few hours of the restaurant, and the menu reads like a seasonal inventory of the Danish natural world.

The cooking is extraordinarily precise without being cold. A dish of raw langoustine with frozen dill oil and sea buckthorn has the clarity of a Nordic winter morning; a preparation of aged Danish beef with fermented mushroom and pine has the depth and warmth of an autumn forest. The dessert sequence — five courses that move from savoury to sweet through a series of preparations involving preserved summer fruits, cultured dairy, and wild herbs — is among the finest in European fine dining.

The service team, led by sommelier Søren Ledet, is one of the most accomplished in Scandinavia. The beverage pairing — which includes natural wines, biodynamic producers, and a selection of fermented beverages made in-house — is designed to mirror the kitchen's philosophy of terroir and transformation. Geranium is, in the fullest sense, a complete dining experience: a place where every element — room, food, service, beverage — has been considered with the same rigour and care.